Cabinet Making - Cabinet Toe Kick Dimensions

Cabinet Making – Cabinet Toe Kick Dimensions

Do not get me wrong, I such as Norm Abram. I think he has a ton of ability and does a bang up task advising as well as circulating woodworking but I need to claim it discomforts me drastically to enjoy him construct routine, run-of-the-mill, daily closets. He invests so much time and wasted power on them that I want to run shouting into the night. We’re talking standard kitchen and bathroom selection cabinets below, not ship-going vessels. The feature of a closet is to rest there or hang there and that’s it, that’s all it’ll ever before do. All those elegant screws and all the glue and all them rabbets and also dadoes he uses are totally unnecessary. There, I claimed it and also I’m not the least little bit scared of doing so.

I’ve been stapling cupboards together for twenty years or far better and I have yet to come across one breaking down or coming off a wall surface. So, prior to I go any type of additional let me attend to how I tackle making my cabinets:

I use quality sheet products; Air Conditioning or BC plywood, Melamine or particle board (extra on this later).

I have a dimensioned drawing of all my cabinet dimensions – both base as well as wall surface (this makes my material reducing faster and also simpler).

The only thing I worry on are the face frameworks – simply put I do not get anal on carcase setting up.

That’s it! Those are the only points so let’s proceed.

Tools you’ll need:.

A tablesaw – yes, you might reduce the get rid of a circular saw but a TS is quicker and extra precise.

A 1/4″ crown stapler capable of shooting 1 1/2″ and 1 1/4″ staples.

A brad nailer with the ability of firing 1 1/2″ brads.

An air compressor.

A planer.

A drywall square.

A framework square.

A miter saw.

A hammer.

A set of dykes.

A pencil.

A pencil sharpener.



A workbench.

Pipe or bar clamps.

A cordless drill equipped with a # 2 Phillips or square drive little bit.

A silly worthless cat.

I’m quite certain you can do without the damned ole dumb worthless cat but the other stuff you’ll need.

There are two types of closets; base and wall surface. Any type of that rest on the flooring are base cupboards. Presume which ones get on the wall surface?

If you claimed ‘wall surface’ then you’re an excellent guesser.

Ok, the next thing are the cupboard regulations. These guidelines are for conventional base and wall closets, indicating 24″ deep x 34 1/2″ high and also 12″ deep x 30″ high respectively (if you want your closets various then you’ll require to change these dimensions as necessary). These regulations will never ever change so consider them chiseled in rock.

I recognize, you’re claiming, “But Dear ole Joe, base cabinets are 36″ high exactly how’s come yours are 34 1/2″ high?” Well, that’s due to the fact that we haven’t place on the counter top yet. Do not stress, we’ll arrive.

Base closets.

Sides as well as partitions – 22 3/4″ x 29″.

Bottoms – 22 3/4″ x nevertheless broad the face frame is minus 3/4″.

Racks – 14 3/4″ x nonetheless long they need to be – you don’t desire the shelf the complete depth.

Backs – however long all-time low is x 29 3/4″ x 1/2″ thick (this is the only 1/2″ product used on the base cupboard).

Toe-kick – 4 3/4″ wide strips and also 2″ large strips (I get these out of the scrap so reduced them last).

Wall surface cupboards.

Sides as well as dividings – 10 3/4″ x 26 7/8″.

Racks – 10 3/4″ x however long they need to be – on wall surface cabinets you want them the full depth.

Bottoms as well as tops – however large the face frame is minus 3/4″ x 10 3/4″.

Backs – however wide the face frame is minus 3/4″ x 28 3/8″ x 1/2″ thick (this is the only 1/2″ product utilized on the wall cupboard).

Face Frames.

All rails are 2″ large (using pocket hole joinery is finest however butt joints work well).

All outdoors stiles are 1 5/8″ large *.

All dividing stiles are 1 3/4″ *.

Face frameworks expand 1 1/4″ below the carcase (see illustrations below).

* – These sizes enable you to make use of 1/2″ spacers when/if it comes time to mount drawers (see the cabinet video clip web links at the end of this program).

The planned use of a cabinet determines what sheet product will be the parts composing the closet; if it’s a cupboard in my shop after that the carcase will certainly appear bit board. If I’m making a collection of kitchen cabinets after that they are always Melamine; it’s currently finished, very easy to clean as well as looks specialist. Plus, it comes in various solid shades and also patterns – good stuff. One caveat though … be careful handling it after making a cut – the sides are really sharp and also will certainly slice you damn close to the bone.

I try to prevent using plywood unless the grade is A/C or far better as well as despite having that I have concerns; spaces between the layers, football formed fillers that are all also visible when a finish is applied, the densities being odd-sized as well as the price. Generally, unless I’m attempting to match cabinets currently in position or the client particularly demands it, I don’t make use of plywood.

The first thing I do is reduced all the elements composing the cupboards and also mill the face frame product. I pile them against a wall in areas; tops/bottoms, sides/partitions, backs, and so on. I do this since I place trust in the cut checklist produced from a 3D modeling program called SketchUp as well as you ‘d do well to download this wonderful program. With it in hand I can quickly cut all the parts for a whole set of typical kitchen cabinets in 2 hours and never ever when examine the precision of the measurements.

Take a look at this model of increased parts making up a typical base cupboard. Notice there are just 4 major parts; the back, the sides and/or dividings, the bottom and, finally, the toe-kick setting up.

And this is what is appears like constructed.

Setting up the fundamental carcase could not be simpler. Stand all-time low up on your floor and lift among the sides or dividers into place, staple it every 3″ using 1 1/2″ staples after that repeat for the continuing to be side and/or partitions. Currently you contend least a “U” shaped figure. Place the back on and start stapling (without altering dimensions – this is everything about speed right here) it onto the carcase framework making certain one side and also the bottom align after that staple the other side. If your cuts are square after that your carcase is square. In other words, do not fret about it, proceed.

Nevertheless the base cupboard carcases are set up and laying scattered on your production line, it’s time to put on the toe-kick-assembly. Run around and stand all the carcases bottom up and also utilize the scrap material left over to cut the pieces. Staple them as revealed listed below.

The toe-kick could not be simpler. See how the setting up increases the carcase off the floor? See just how the face framework expands below the carcase bottom? An 1 1/4″ + 3/4″ is 2″! Presto! With the rails grated to 2″ all you have to do is purge the face framework with the upper surface area of the bottom rack while making certain to overhang the stiles by 3/8″ on each side.

From here on out you need to identify on your own where your partitions will certainly be, what your face structure formats will be, etc. however what I’ve offered you right here should be lots of information to get started. Bear in mind this information base cupboards yet the framework of wall cabinets is the specific very same with the only distinction existing is no toe-kick, which is changed with a specific replica of the top.

Face structures on base cabinets are constantly flush to the top of the carcase, however on wall cupboards they are 3/8″ happy with the top of the carcase. Why? Once again, assembly anomalies and also to obtain them all to line up and also look good.

Just how do I connect the face frames?

I initially set a line of yellow carpenter’s adhesive along the facility of the edges of the carcase. Next, I set the FF in position (if you made the FF appropriately after that the top edge of the 2″ large lower rail need to be flush with the upper surface area of the carcase’s base.

Start at the end of the FF to secure it to the carcase by using your brad nailer. Align the FF to the carcase side by utilizing a strip of wood as a spacer that is cut to 3/8″ thick (if you made the FF correctly after that the other side of the FF must additionally be 3/8″ happy with the carcase side. Flush the rail and also ensure the FF is 3/8″ happy with the side and sink a brad in one corner after that do the very same in the other corner (I try to area the brads about 8″ apart). Since the FF is fastened to the bottom action the spacer up to the top of the carcase – push/pull the carcase side so you have the 3/8″ overhang as well as sink a brad (repeat for opposite side – if there are dividings then you may have to measure to straighten them properly). End up brad nailing the stiles of the sides and dividings. If you utilized excessive adhesive then you might want to clean up whatever ejected.

Attaching wall surface cupboards to the wall is fairly straightforward, drill with the 1/2″ back where necessary – no hanging rail, no French cleats, no expensive crap.

Racks are the absolute last thing you cut. You cut them to fit due to the fact that you can’t be trusted to construct the carcase precisely or trust the material you’re using. So, measure after the face framework is connected and after that mount them.

Dominic Palazzola, an expert member of our woodworking checklist, recommended a slide-out step stool in the toe-kick location. I’ve installed a considerable amount of cabinets throughout the years and also this idea struck me with a great deal of pressure. Now, rather than your better half groaning for you to rise off the couch and come reach that once-in-a-blue-moon meal off the top rack, she can bend over, remove the virtually concealed step and obtain the damn thing herself. This view likewise shows the affixed panel that obtains brad nailed onto the carcase.

As for counter tops, well, they’re like apples, there are numerous kinds I might sit below for years covering them. However you can go HERE for my Counter Tops 201 course. For now, suffice it to claim my counter tops have a 5″ wide x 3/4″ thick layer around the boundary of the full layer to give the illusion of it being 1 1/2″ thick. As a result, 34 1/2″ + 1 1/2″ = 36″ (See, I informed you I ‘d get there).

I’m particular a few of your base closets will house some drawers so I did these 3 video clips showing you how I tackle making and also mounting drawers.

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *